Everyone seems to be making the Tiramisu at the moment and I am no exception!
I signed up for a course with the wondrous designer herself, Steph, in Brisbane last weekend. I have some stretch sewing experience, but it is mostly lycra from early days of making skating dresses. I figured I wasn't going to pass up on getting some tips from the best of the best, on top of that, it seems there are few chances to get together with other sewers in Brisbane.
Steph was great, she started by eyeballing me to gauge my body type and size and without measuring she was spot on. I cut a high bust 35 and bust of size 35D. She also showed me a great tip to mark my tissue pattern pieces with the stripes noting which colours go where so that I would not have matching issues later.
Construction wise, this went together well, although this fabric was a pain to sew as it is so stretchy. Reducing the downward pressure on my foot helped, but perhaps a walking foot (which I don't have) would have helped more?
We had some fit issues at the bust, one problem was that the neck strips were cut the other way around on the fabric, and the fabric stretches differently in each direction. Lengthways = stretchy, widthways = MEGA-stretchy! This caused a bit of a pulling issue at the wrapover but also an excess of fabric under the bust. We ended up cutting about an inch of the bottom of the front bodice to fix the excess fabric issues. I think this also stemmed from me being a shorty, so this is my petite adjustment too!
You can see in the above there are still a couple of issues in the centre, but nothing that I am too concerned about. The dress is too comfortable to care!!!
It passes the obligatory movement test!! No flashing here :)
I also reduced the width of the waistband as probably partly due to the fabric and partly due to my lack of height, it was just way too wide. I took a pair of stripes out, about an inch.
I really like this dress and it is so comfortable, I don't even feel like I can wear it to work as I am sure I am not supposed to be that comfy at work, it just seems wrong, it's like wearing PJs!!
I had no issues with the pattern at all and learnt so much during this make and it was such a pleasure to meet the lovely Steph. My only issue was my fabric choice, whilst is is a lovely drapey jersey, it seems to have too much drape and is super stretchy and even now after a wear of a few hours, it is still getting longer and I may have to re-hem it.
My tip: think through your fabric choice, think hard, the skirt is full and therefore heavy; drape, weight and stretch really need to be kept in mind when picking fabric.
Look out for two more wintery versions soon!
Funny - We started at the same size, and did really similar modifications! My first Tira had a 35d bust, but since then I've gone down to a 35c, then a 35b. Too much length! I also shortened the waist. I wouldn't have guessed we would be the same size (I think you are better endowed on top, and I've got more junk in the trunk?!) It's neat how a knit pattern can fit so many people in different ways! I think your dress looks great on you... and I'm totally jealous of your tropical surroundings!
ReplyDeleteI think with the adjustment I probably ended up a 35a! Which is weird cos obviously I am not an A cup. I put it down to the fabric! I think this pattern is so clever how it seems to be universally flattering - genius!
DeleteBTW - my surrounding is the park at the corner of my street.
I agree, I love that on knit pattern.. You look lovely x
ReplyDeleteThank you, will you be giving it a try too?
DeleteLove it.. Looks great on you and oh so comfortable..Great job. Look forward to seeing what's next?
ReplyDeleteHmmmm....what't next? Well, I have two tiramisus planned, one black, one grey. I have some merino for a top that may get changed to a dress if I have enough fabric, a vintage shirt dress muslin, a couple of summer sleeveless Banksias....
DeleteThis looks so great! Love these colors on you! And how fun to take a class with Steph!
ReplyDeleteSo fun - even just to have a chat and have an insight into the way she thinks, amazing opportunity.
DeleteYour dress is fab! The colour looks great on you, and yey to no embarassing flashing!!
ReplyDeleteThanks! Agree flashing is bad, very bad, no wardrobe malfunctions for me :)
DeleteThis is super adorable! May I say that fabric is delicious! And thank you for the fabric selection tip- this is great to know!
ReplyDeleteThe fabric is from The Fabric Store, it is lovely and soooo comfy, but an absolutely bitch to sew. Joy of joys I have loads left that I want to make a tee out of so I will have to sew it again! grrr
DeleteI was expecting a tiramisu recipe as its a dessert ive been wanting to make a while haha. But thats ok. This is lovely and does look very comfy. I like your haircut as well! x
ReplyDeletehehe, sorry no Tiramisu dessert for me, don't like coffee, however love a good lemon meringue ;)
DeleteThanks, the hair is getting shorter and shorter! very liberating!
The more I sew, the more I realise fabric selection is paramount! nevertheless... you can't go wrong wearing a dress in public that's as comfy as wearing pj's in the privacy of your own home. That's a big home run for knits!
ReplyDeleteSo true on the fabric, you really get what you pay for. Although in saying that, this fabric is good quality and wasn't cheap. I don't care it is sooooo comfy.
DeleteAhhhh another lovely Tira in the blogosphere!! ^__^ I've got mine planned for my next section of my SWAP, but every time I see another one I get antsy to make my own!! ^__^ Great point on the stretch factor - it's so true that not all knits are equal, and the skirt being full would definitely attribute to additional stretching!
ReplyDeleteLucky you getting to meet Steph, too! She seems like such a lovely person :)
Ha - had to refer back to your blog to remember what SWAP was (sewing with a plan). Jump it up the list, so comfy, you won't regret it!!
DeleteIt looks so good! It was nice meeting you, Liz. :)
ReplyDeleteThank you, as I said so comfy! Look out for more in the future! It was lovely to meet you too and I am keen to hear about the other classes you will be offering.
DeleteYour Tiramisu has turned out great and I love the stripes and the colour on you! I love my Tira as well and you are so right... it's so comfortable and it looks great on everyone who has made this. I made the 40D and it fits me perfectly. Thankfully the knit fabric I used didn't have too much stretch... you definitely shared a great tip about the fabric :)
ReplyDeleteThank you, the fabric was a bit painful but a good learning experience. My new fabric is less stretchy so should be better
DeleteLove a cool comfortable dress you feel like shouting it from the tree tops. I hate dresses where you feel like you are wearing a dress in the sense you can't wait to get out of it, if that makes sense,
ReplyDeleteThis is certainly the most comfortable dress I own, it is great for lounging!
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